Auto-locking belay devices are best for climbing indoors or at your local crag. Though they reduce the climber's work load (because the device pinches the rope allowing the climber to reduce hand fatigue), Auto-locking belay devices are expensive, heavy and not ideal for rappelling.
www.spadout.com/w/belay-device/ www.spadout.com/w/belay-device/
Belay Devices Work by Friction. Belay devices, sometimes called BDs, come in a surprising ... The devices are also bulkier, do not have a keeper cord, ...
climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/BelayRapDevices.ht... climbing.about.com/od/climbinggear/a/BelayRapDevices.htm
Belay device - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Belay devices are mechanical pieces of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. They are designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their dut...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belay_device
Belaying devices use a combination of friction and pinching to produce a braking effect on the rope and a device’s design dictates which effect will predominate upon loading. Devices relying principally on friction (e.g. Figure-of-8) will t...
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1436
How do belay devices work?; Belaying devices use a combination of friction and pinching to produce a braking effect on the rope and a device’s design dictates which effect will predominate upon loading. ... You are here Equipment Advice Feature Belay devices...
www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1436
Salewa invented the principles behind most modern day belay devices in the early 70's, with the original sticht plate. This had a tendency to jam, so a spring was added, thus relieving the problem. The sticht plate is still very good, but there are ... The krab hole has been stretched to work better as a belay device.
www.climb-guide.com/reviews/equip/belay.html www.climb-guide.com/reviews/equip/belay.html
In fact, it is nearly impossible. That is why we use belay devices. ... Remember, the purpose of a belay device is to create friction. You could try sliding down a rope with your bare hands, but it probably wouldn't feel to great, or work well either. The rappel system described provides plenty of friction.
www.myoan.net/climbart/belaydevices.html www.myoan.net/climbart/belaydevices.html
In general I don't trade devices out of the collection unless I have accidentally acquired duplicates - if I traded my collection away, then I wouldn't be able to share everything with all my readers. Sometimes I can work a deal where I trade new equipment obtained through a third party.
storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/VerticalHome.s... storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/VerticalHome.shtml
However, the bent gate also makes it easier for the gate to work itself open, ... A belayer's job is to hold the rope to stop a falling climber, which is difficult without the aid of a belay device---an object capable of stopping the rope or passing it through smoothly. There are many such belay devices, and are all easy to...
www.alumni.caltech.edu/~sedwards/climbing/equipment.htm... www.alumni.caltech.edu/~sedwards/climbing/equipment.html
Not all belay devices currently used by the rock climbing population can safely arrest the high force falls of multi-pitch climbing. ... Presently, there are no standards of how a belay device should work, and there are no regulations for what materials should be used in the manufacturing or what load thresholds the...
www.mra.org/services/grants/documents/Hang_Em_High_Fina... www.mra.org/services/grants/documents/Hang_Em_High_Final.pdf
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